If you are interested in a unique trip around Mongolia with some adventure along the way, an epic thirteen-day road trip like this could be for you. Masha, Mike, their driver Oggi, and Mandela the dog, embarked on this ambitious road trip in July 2020.

Epic Road Trip Mongolia - 13 Day Adventure- Jenny Sandiford

Masha was kind enough to share their itinerary, travel stories, photos and some tips and tricks with me from their 3,377 kilometer (2,098 mile) drive.

Starting in Ulaanbaatar, the circuit lead them through the Gobi Desert, to the ancient capital of Kharkhorin, to the White Lake and up north to tranquil Lake Khovsgol.

This itinerary was created by Masha and their friend, and tour guide Jay. Jay runs the tour company Motor Brothers, specializing in off-road adventure around Mongolia on motorbikes. He speaks English, Russian, German and Mongolian if you want to plan a trip with him.

As with most trips in Mongolia, things did not go as planned but made for a wild adventure. If you want to see videos to go with this, checkout Masha’s Instagram highlights reel.

*This post contains affiliate links to products I recommend. If you make a purchase through these links I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.

Map of Mongolia- 13-Day Itinerary

Trip map for 13-day road trip around Mongolia. A circuit starting in Ulaanbaatar then going south to the Gobi Desert and then north to Lake Khovsgol.

Day 1- White Stupa (Tsagaan Suvarga)

Top sights- White stupa canyon, sunset, sunrise.

Drive- Ulaanbaatar to White Stupa

Distance- 490km (273.4miles) with 30km (18.6miles) off-road.

Accommodation- Gobi Caravanserai

Day one started out by gathering food and supplies for the next two weeks at the supermarket, before heading out toward the Gobi Desert around midday. The drive to the first stop, the White Stupa, was around six hours taking the main road south toward Mandalgobi.

At around 6pm they arrived at a Gobi Caravanserai hotel in the middle of a vast desert plain. The hotel looks like something you would find in a desert in Jordan rather than Mongolia.

They went to the White Stupa in the evening when it is a little cooler. The White Stupa, known in Mongolian as Tsagaan Suvarga (цагаан суварга), looks like a city of ancient monument ruins carved out of the land. It is a natural formation with beautiful colours and shapes made up of striking cliffs of sedimentary rock that were once the ocean floor.

Standing at the top of the cliffs is a great way to watch the sun set or rise and appreciate the vast emptiness and beauty of the Gobi Desert.

Useful Info

Many people travel to this area to camp and see the White Stupa. If you plan to camp just be aware there is no shelter from the elements, and no trees, this also means no toilets.

Gobi Caravanserai is the only hotel and the area and is a great place to stay for one night. There isn’t much else in the area to see. Masha said the restaurant was good, they provided vegetarian options and had a buffet for breakfast. This is a pricey option and for paying top dollar, you might not be so happy with having communal bathrooms and rooms without air-con.

It gets very hot in summer; it is a desert. Many of the guests staying at the hotel opted to sleep outside on the patios rather than deal with the stifling hot rooms.

Tip- Watch the sunset and sunrise from the top of the White Stupa cliffs.

Day 2- Yolyn Am Valley

Top sights- Dungenee’s canyon and Yolyn Am Valley

Drive- White Stupa to Dalanzadgad and Yolyn Am

Distance- Around 180km (111.9miles), a further 46km (28.6miles) to Yolyn Am

Accommodation- Khan Uul Hotel

On day two, they set out from the White Stupa and took the same main road south further into the Gobi Desert to the town of Dalanzadgad (Даланзадгад). Dalanzadgad, also known as DZ, is a pleasant town that has done well out of the mining boom in the area. It has wide roads, parks and a surprising amount of greenery for a desert. The roads in DZ are some of the best in Mongolia.

Forty-six kilometers out of the city is Yolyn Am. This is a scenic valley where you can either walk, or take a horse on an easy trek to see some beautiful scenery and wildlife. You follow a small river all the way through the gorge that leads to a permanent ice field between the steep cliffs where you see the water trickle away under the slabs of ice.

Yolyn Am translates from Mongolian as ‘mouth of the vulture,’ also is known as the Valley of the Vultures it refers to the Lammergeier, a rare old world vulture that is only found in a few regions of Asia. This is one of the few places you can spot them.

Jay from the tour company, joined Masha and Mike on the trip and took them to the lesser known Dungenee’s canyon, just ten minutes drive from Yolyn Am. Masha recommends this spot over Yolyn Am. It is a beautiful narrow gorge with a river running down the center and is known for its clear spring water. It is a popular place for picnicking and there were lots of families and kids set up with tents in big groups.

Useful Info

The Khan Uul hotel in Dalanzadgad is fine for a night. It has old soviet style decoration that hasn’t been updated in some time, but they could bring the dog there and it had hot showers. One negative of the hotel was not having any air con, the rooms were very hot.

You can find a few food options around DZ. The hotels have basic meals, but check the hours they are open.

In the countryside in Mongolia you can’t buy alcohol on Wednesdays, keep that in mind when ordering drinks with dinner.

Tip- There is a small museum on the main road before you turn off to Yolyn Am that is worth a quick stop in. There are some hilarious taxidermied animals worth seeing, but also a lot of info about wildlife in the area and there are some nice souvenirs from stores with local handy-crafts.

Day 3- Gobi Desert

Top sights- Vast stretches of desert and sand dunes

Drive- Dalanzadgad to sand dunes

Distance- 240km (149miles)

Accommodation- Camping in the desert

On the third day, things did not go as planned. It started out well. On the way to the sand dunes they filled up with petrol and stopped at a local shop to buy a few things. They met some friendly local kids at a well in the middle of nowhere. Water wells like this are scattered around the Gobi desert and are a place for animals to drink and locals to fill up water to take to their gers (traditional felt tents Mongolians live in). This well had impressive solar panels and a battery operated system.

After this, things went downhill. It was a scorching day and in the middle of nowhere, amongst the sand dunes and desert landscape, the car got stuck.

Luckily, Masha and Mike still had their friends accompanying them on that leg of the journey with another vehicle. They spent hours trying to get their car out of the sand, but to no avail. They took the other car and went off to find help.

They spent hours roaming the desert, but came across nothing but abandoned ger camps. All closed because of Covid-19 and no tourists being able to enter the country. Eventually they came across a family in an old Russian van. They agreed to come back and help.

After some time, they got the car out of the sand, and the van family went back to their own journey. It was already late at this point, so they set up camp once the car was free and ate a well-deserved meal. But as they started to eat, the family from the van appeared, walking across the desert without their van.

They hadn’t gotten far and their van had broken down. Masha and her friend stayed at the new campsite, while the others went to help fix the van. During this time another man turned up at their camp fire, saying his car had was stuck in sand over the hill. The random stranger hung out for a while until Mike and Oggi arrived back, and the other man headed back to his car. Jay stayed with the van family and helped fix the van and didn’t get back until well after midnight.

That night it poured with rain, soaking the tents and leaving everyone in want of a hot shower.

Useful info

There is often no phone reception in remote areas of Mongolia so try to stick to known roads that are marked on maps, you are more likely to come across other people this way. Mongolian people in the countryside are usually friendly and will usually be happy to help you if you ask.

Tip- Travel with another vehicle and have equipment for towing cars with you.

Day 4- Khongor Sand Dunes

Top sights- Sunset view of Flaming Cliffs

Drive- Sand dunes to Bayanzag

Distance- 170km (105.6miles)

Accommodation- Gobi Tour Camp

On day four, they woke up to soggy tents but a beautiful clear morning in the desert with dark storm clouds on the horizon.

Masha described how serene the desert was in the early morning hours. Nothing but the sound of wind across the sand dunes and tiny insects scuttling about the sand. She found a quiet spot on a dune to meditate. A perfect way to start fresh after the chaos and stress of the previous day.

They packed up the camp and headed toward the Bayanzag (the Flaming Cliffs) as it started to pour with rain across the desert plains. In between rain showers they stopped at the impressive sprawling Khongor sand dunes. People in the distance looked like ants from high in the dunes. They came across herds of horses roaming around and Mandela the dog enjoyed running around in the sand.

After this it was another long, tiring drive across bumpy roads. They came to a small town near the Bayanzag area. The people in the shop were happy to see some customers but told them all the camps in the area were closed.

It was evening by this point, and they drove to four different camps, all of which were closed with no people in sight. Finally, they spotted a woman in the distance and drove straight towards her, hoping she knew somewhere they could go.

Fortunately, she knew of a camp nearby. The camp was also closed when they got there, but the people there were helpful and agreed to open it for them. It had all the basics, most importantly hot showers which they got running just for them.

The highlight of the day was finding somewhere to stay, and the bonus was the camp had a view out across the Flaming Cliffs. A great spot to watch the sunset.

Useful info

A great camp in the area is Gobi Oasis- an eco friendly camp with a view of the Flaming cliffs and good food.

In summer in the normal tourist season, all the camps in the area would be open. Booking is usually essential.

Tip- If you see a shop or petrol station always fill up petrol and get more water. You don’t know when you will come across one again.

Day 5- Flaming Cliffs (Bayanzag)

Top sights- Flaming Cliffs

Drive- Flaming cliffs to Secret of Ongi Camp

Distance- 130km (80.7miles)

Accommodation- Camping

Day five they went to check out Bayanzag, an impressive formation of bright red cliffs also known as the Flaming Cliffs. This area is famous for the discovery of hundreds of rare dinosaur fossils. It was the first place an intact nest of dinosaur eggs was ever found, as well as impressive fossil skeletons of protoceratops and velociraptors.

Unfortunately, the top viewpoints from the cliffs was overrun by construction workers installing stairs and walkways. This will make it much safer for walking around the cliffs and enjoying the great views in the future, but at the time made it hard to get anywhere for a look.

If you have time to explore the cliffs, you might find fossils in the wash at the base of the cliffs. After rain, new fossils can be exposed. Don’t pull them out though, the soft sandstone from cliffs can collapse on you and it’s illegal to take the fossils. You can walk around on the top of the cliffs and there is parking up there. There are no real trails down, you can find your own way, but it can be dangerous. It’s a fun place to explore.

After seeing the Flaming Cliffs they started the drive to Ongi, the road heading north was not too bad.

After days of driving through the desert, the green Ongi river valley was a welcome change. The area is home to the ruins of the ancient Ongi Monastery (Онгийн хийд) and the Ongi river.

Usually tourists would stay at the Secret of Ongi Tourist Camp, but once again this camp was closed because of Covid-19. It was around 2pm in the afternoon when they arrived so they set up in a pleasant spot near the river and had a relaxing afternoon and Masha’s friend Ari made them a traditional Mongolian meal called tsuvian for dinner. Tsuvian is a dish made of wheat-flour noodles, mutton, carrots and onion (you can leave out the meat to make it vegetarian, some restaurants will have this option). Mandela the dog wanted to go home at this point and refused to get out of the car!

Useful Info

Don’t go digging for dinosaur fossils, it is illegal to take them and be careful walking around the cliffs. The soft sandstone can crumble and there are some big drops from the cliffs.

If you are interested in the dinosaurs check out this book- Dinosaurs of the Flaming Cliffs by Michael Novacek.

Tips- Checkout the flaming cliffs at sunset. The red cliffs glow in the light and are a great place for a picnic with a glass of wine at the end of the day.

Day 6- Ongi Monastery and Kharkhorin

Top sights- Ongi Monastery

Drive- Ongi to Kharkhorin

Distance- 300km (186.4miles)

Accommodation- Ger camp

Masha went to explore the ruins of the Ongi Monastery that morning. As she walked up the hill toward the crumbling stupa at the top, she could feel the history of ancient temples that had once stood there. At the top by the collapsing stupa the wind whipped at the blue khadag prayer scarfs. Below her there once stood a small city.

One of the largest monasteries in the area was founded in the 1600s. From this, two temples complexes were established and were home to over 1000 monks. The northern monastery comprised of 17 temples, the southern monastery had 11 temples.

Sadly, in 1939 both complexes of the Ongi Monastery were destroyed. Two hundred of the monks living there were shot and killed during the anti-religious purges of the Soviet Era.

Today little remains of the old temples, but exploring the rubble can give you a sense of the history of the area and what it used to be. Masha found some interesting carved stonework from the old temples. Rocks with old Buddhist symbolism and patterns with flowers and spirals.

The new monastery there, Ongi Khid, has a healing water source, Bar Khamba. These ‘health-giving waters’ are effective if you drink them before sunrise.

Useful info

In open tourist seasons stay at the Secret of Ongi Camp in the Ongi area.

Kharkhorin

They set out once again, this time toward the north-west to Kharkhorin (Хархорин), close to the ancient capital of Mongolia Kharkhorum (Хархорум).

They arrived in the evening. The area was busy with people celebrating the yearly Naadam festival. A nationwide holiday celebrating the three manly sports of wrestling, archery and horse racing. Woman were dressed in traditional Mongolian Deels and celebrations in the area were well underway.

It was after 6pm when they arrived and the museum was closed. But the Erdene Zuu Monastery was open to explore the grounds. They explored the area in around an hour, seeing the grounds, the impressive stupas of the wall of the monastery, the temples and the giant cauldrons monks used to cook up feasts in. There was also a market with shops of interesting souvenirs worth checking out.

After exploring the monastery, they found a nearby ger camp to spend the night. There were lots of ger camps open in the area to choose from. They got unlucky and got a bad one, it was expensive and the accommodation was not nice but it had hot water which is a bonus!

Useful info

They came across a great restaurant in the area at the Ikh Khorum hotel. This had a surprising range of western dishes including steak, burgers and even seafood. A great place to stop if you have been driving around the countryside for a while and in need of some good food.

Tip- get to the Erdene Zuu Monastery before 6pm to check out the museum.

Day 7- Tsenkher Hot Springs

Top sights- Tsenkher Hot springs

Drive- Kharkhorin to Tsenkher hot springs

Distance- 130km (80.7miles)

Accommodation- Shiveet Mankhan Hot Springs Resort

Day seven took them a few hours west to Arkhangai, an area of hot springs and forests. They separated from their travel companions at this point and arrived at the place to be in this area, Duut Resort. Surrounded by picturesque forests, water from the natural hot springs is pumped into a series of pools spread out across this resort.

This is a popular holiday destination for Mongolian’s, and is known for its spa facilities and family friendly range of activities. This stop is a great opportunity to relax, have some spa time, soak in the hot water, or go hiking or horse riding.

Masha, Mike and Mandela stayed at the nearby Shiveet Mankhan Hot Springs Resort, as Duut Resort was all booked out. Often you need to book this place well in advance.

Useful info-

Stay at Duut resort. Or if it is busy, you can eat there as they have the best restaurant in the area and can provide a few vegetarian options.

Tip- A great place to go on a group trip.

Day 8- White Lake- (Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur)

Top sights- White Lake and Khorgo volcanic crater

Drive- Hot springs- White Lake

Distance- 200km (124.3miles)

Accommodation- Terkh Enkh Camp

Day eight took them further north-west to the White Lake. They stopped on the way at the Chuluut River gorge. This amazing view was just off the main road.

The next stop was the Khorgo volcano. A volcanic crater surrounded by old lava fields, scree slopes of basalt rock, and well established larch forests. The last volcanic eruption was estimated to be 8000 years ago. You can climb to the top and walk around the crater is around 200 meters (656 feet) in diameter and around 80 meters (262 feet) deep.

Masha climbed to the top, which took less than an hour. There are no distinct paths, and towards the top it is more of a scramble over rocks than a walk. If you are interested in volcanos and great views, this is a good walk.

After the volcano they found a great camp next to the White Lake, look out for the sign тэрх энх.

The camp manager Sulhe was very welcoming and had an amazing restaurant set up with a view overlooking the lake. The food was good, and she went out of her way to make vegetarian meals when they asked about them.

In the evening they look Mandela for a walk around the lake and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. The lake is part of the Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur National Park. A protected area of 773 hectares (1,910 acres) filled with alpine meadows and forests.

This is a beautiful place to relax and enjoy the natural scenery of the Mongolian countryside.

Useful info

It was freezing cold at the lake at night. The ger accommodation was very simple. Make sure you bring warm clothes and maybe a sleeping bag. There are several camps in the area where you can go horse riding, rent bikes, or rent kayaks for the lake.

This area is also known for bird watching. You can see many species of eagles, vultures, passerines, and migratory water bird such as bar-headed geese, arctic loon, whooper swans and demoiselle cranes.

Tip- Walk around the lake and checkout all the stacked volcanic stones on the shore.

Day 9- Nomadic Family Visit

Top sights- Mongolian countryside

Drive- White Lake- Nomadic Family

Distance- 300km (186.4miles)

Accommodation- Camping

Day nine was a detour from their set itinerary. Instead of going to the town of Murun, Mike got a call from a friend saying he was in the area and they could come stay with a nomadic family for the night and have dinner.

It was a long bumpy journey off-road to meet their friend. Then after this an even longer journey into the middle-of-nowhere-Mongolian-countryside to find the nomadic family. It was near dusk when they finally arrived at their destination.

The family were herders living in a wide, grassy valley surrounded by open sky and distant hills. They offered Masha and Mike a traditional Mongolian drink called airag. This is a drink made from fermented mare's milk and is mildly alcoholic. It is an acquired taste, and rude not to accept at least a small drink when offered.

For dinner they had a large pot of mutton soup cooking on the central fire in the ger. This is a staple meal in Mongolia and one you will see everywhere from restaurants, to roadside shops to family gers. Luckily Masha had a good supply of vegetarian snacks on hand.

It was nearly dark by the time they had dinner so set up their tent and after this were offered more to drink, this time vodka, another staple beverage in Mongolia.

Tip-For foreigners not used to drinking airag, be careful with how much you drink as it can cause an upset stomach.

Day 10- Lake Khovsgol Ger Camp

Top sights- Lake Khovsgol

Drive- Nomadic family’s ger to Lake Khovsgol

Distance- 170km (105.6miles)

Accommodation- Toilgot Camp

The next day took them on a shortcut through some back roads to get to the town of Murun. But first they had to cross the swollen river on a very interesting home made barge. Northern Mongolia had been hit hard with flash flooding and rain over the past week, so the river was running high and the surrounding ground was very muddy.

After getting the car out of the mud once, they reached the barge but faced an hour and a half wait while they made repairs to the vehicle platform leading onto the barge. The attendant was a friendly seventeen-year-old boy keen to practice his English, he was from the local area and hadn’t met many foreigners so was happy to chat in broken English.

It was finally ready, and two cars pushed ahead of them in line before they could get on. After another wait as those cars were transported across it was their turn, they drove up the dodgy wooden platform onto the deck which seemed to be two old boats stuck together. It was pulled across the river by an old mechanical winch and pulley system.

Once across the river, they drove on and made it to the town of Murun, picked up some supplies and continued on to Lake Khovsgol.

Lake Khovsgol is in the very north of Mongolia, near the Russian border. It is known for its crystal-clear deep water and beautiful surroundings of Siberian Taiga forest. It is a national park and has the variety of wildlife, it is also known for the remote Tsaatan people, the reindeer herders and Shamans that live in the north.

The afternoon at Lake Khovsgol was spent settling into Toigolt Camp, right on the waterfront of the lake. Masha, Mike and Mandela stayed in a traditional Mongolia ger that was a lot better than previous ones they’d stayed in.

The camp was on an amazing spot between the forest and the water. They could choose between accommodation in tee-pees (traditional tents of the Tsaatan people), in gers (Mongolian traditional felt tents), in cabins, or in the large wooden lodge. Some gers even had ensuites.

Lake Khovsgol was a welcome reprieve after ten days of long drives and dusty roads. The restaurant has good food and was all included in the accommodation's price. The camp could also arrange all sorts of activities; horse riding, canoeing, kayaking, boat trips, cultural performances and bonfires at night.

They spent the afternoon enjoying the lakeside resort and walking around the edge of the lake. You will always encounter the odd groups of yaks, horses and cows meandering around the surrounding lakeside and meadows.

Useful info

Checkout a related article about Hiking at Lake Khovsgol

Photo by Masha Savanchuk. Toilogt camp at Lake Khovsgol

Day 11- Lake Khovsgol- Boat trip to Island

Top sights-Boat trip on Lake Khovsgol

Drive- Toigolt camp to Island

Distance- 46km (28.6miles)

Accommodation- Toilogt Camp

Day eleven was a boat trip instead of a drive. The camp organized a boat to take Masha, Mike and Mandela out to the island in the middle of Lake Khovsgol. It’s about 46km (28.6 miles) from the camp and didn’t take too long in the fast boat.

Lake Khovsgol holds 70% of Mongolia’s fresh water. Even in deep water it is amazingly clear and has a rich icy blue hue, it is sometimes referred to as the Blue Pearl of Mongolia.

Even in Mongolia, a land locked country as far away from the sea as you can image, there were seagulls! The island was home to hoards of seagulls that did not enjoy meeting a dog, but Mandela enjoyed the trip and paddling in the cold water.

They thoroughly enjoyed the boat trip and recommend heading out to the island and seeing the lake and surrounding mountains from on the water.

Useful info

Other great camps to stay at are:

Natures Door Camp

Ashihai Camp

Tip- There is a lot to do at Lake Khovsgol, so try spending a few days there to relax and enjoy all the activities on offer.

Day 12- Erdenet

Top sights-Erdenet Town

Drive- Lake Khovsgol to Erdenet

Distance- 500km (310miles)

Accommodation- Erdenet Inn

Day twelve they set out south, back towards Ulaanbaatar. On the way out they stopped to see the reindeer people who were set up near the town of Khatgal at the southern end of the lake. The reindeer were all tied up and did not look happy. The reindeer people in this place are only there for tourists, it is not a good way to see the reindeer or the traditional way of life.

If you want to see traditional Tsaatan people, you need to arrange a proper expedition tour to go into the northern forests. This area is not easily accessible, and you need experts on the area to take you. This is the only way to see the authentic way of life of the reindeer people.

If you are an animal lover, I would skip seeing the reindeer at the southern end of Lake Khovsgol.

The drive from Lake Khovsgol to Erdenet is a big one. But the road is not too bad now days, though after heavy rain can be dodgy.

Finally, at the town of Erdenet, they were pleasantly surprised to come across a good restaurant. Maestro Grill restaurant was just down the road from the Erdenet Inn Hotel where they were staying. It had a range of food options and a proper breakfast, much better than the hard eggs and sausage you are usually offered.

Useful info-

If you have time checkout the Erdenet copper mine. This is the fourth largest copper mine in the world and is an impressive sight.

Tip- Eat at the Maestro Grill for a proper breakfast.

Day 13- Return to Ulaanbaatar

Top sights-Countryside views

Drive- Erdenet to Ulaanbaatar via Bulgan, Hustai route

Distance- 404km (251miles)

Another big driving day to get back to Ulaanbaatar. The road from Darkhan to Ulaanbaatar had been closed over summer so they took the route that goes through Bulgan and past Hustai National Park. This drive has varying qualities of road conditions.

You will see your fair share of horses, goats, sheep and eagles on this part of the drive with long stretches of flat steppe that never seem to end.

They finally arrived back in Ulaanbaatar amongst the hustle and bustle of evening traffic. This can be quite an overwhelming experience after being a lonely car wandering across the criss-crossing roads of the countryside, to suddenly being surrounded by thousands of vehicles.

Tip- Again, make sure you fill up with petrol when you see petrol stations. There are a few new truck stops on the main highways around Mongolia now. These have nice new toilet facilities and food courts, making them a nice place to stop to break up the journey.

Summary

Thank you to Masha and Mike for letting me share their story. A road trip like this is a huge undertaking. It pays to have a Mongolian driver who knows how to navigate the countryside without getting lost. A lot of this driving is off-road, so if you plan on driving yourself, make sure you have the off-road driving skills to make it across all sorts of terrain and road conditions.

This is a lot of driving and sights packed into a few short weeks, but worth it if you want to see a lot of Mongolia and make the most of your trip.

Going between camping and ger camps is quite the adventure and sometimes a bit rough. But it is exciting, and if you know up front you are in for an adventure, and can accept changes in plans you will have a blast!

Mongolia has so many amazing places to see and if you are up for an adventure, it is a place you will never forget!

Check out Masha’s Instagram for video highlights of their trip.

Masha’s Tips

Download the Maps Me app- an offline map that works all over Mongolia
Bring fridge that plugs into the car
Bring snack, vegetables, cheese, yoghurts and fresh food that you won’t be able to get on your road trip
Be mindful of your own dietary requirements, you can ask for vegetarian food, but be prepared with your own back up option.
Bring lots of water.
Stock up every time you see water and petrol for sale
Bring warm clothes
Bring pillows, good for car and ger camps
Bring wet wipes and hand sanitizer
Don’t give sweets to nomad kids. Give them fruit
Stay at Lake Khovsgol for longer if you can