Christmas in Mongolia
In the heart of winter in Mongolia, the streets of Ulaanbaatar are icy. Piles of snow are mounded up on sidewalks, the sky is hazy, and as you walk down the street, your breath freezes your eyelashes into mini icicles.
But step into any shop, office, or apartment building in December and you will be met with a wave of toasty hot air and plenty of cheerful decorations, Christmas trees, and colourful lights.
Although Mongolia doesn’t actually celebrate Christmas, there is a Christmassy vibe everywhere you go in December. Instead of celebrating Christmas, the festivities have been adopted into New Year’s celebrations. Instead of Christmas Trees and Christmas parties, there are New Year’s trees, New Year’s decorations, and New Year’s parties. And instead of Santa Claus, you have Grandpa winter all dressed in blue.
As a tourist, expat, or visitor to Mongolia over the holiday season, it is easy to add some Christmassy vibes to the month of December.
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Sukhbaatar Square in Ulaanbaatar set up for the New Year’s concert in 2019. Photo by Jenny Sandiford.
Christmas tree outside a school in Ulaanbaatar. Photo by Casey Lawrence.
What is it like in Mongolia around Christmas time?
Mongolia’s capital city, Ulaanbaatar, is the coldest Capital city in the world! Though it sits at a similar latitude to Paris, the altitude of 1350m and landlocked nature of the country makes for harsh, freezing winters. The average temperatures around Christmas and New Years are between -14 degrees Celsius (6.8 f) to -27 degrees C (-16.6 f). It is too cold to snow around this time, but the snow from November remains and makes for a lovely white Christmas backdrop.
*For celebrations in 2020, keep up to date with Covid-19 news from the Government in case of announcements and restrictions. For English news check Monstame News and the US Embassy website.
Choijin Lama temple in central Ulaanbaatar in winter. Photo by Jenny Sandiford
Icy streets of Ulaanbaatar City Mongolia. Photo by Jenny Sandiford.
Streets in Ulaanbaatar city with man dressed in a traditional Mongolia deel. Photo by Jenny.
Icy pavement in Ulaanbaatar city Mongolia during winter. Photo by Jenny Sandiford
Holiday Traditions
1.New Year’s Tree
Christmas trees are known as New Year’s Trees in Mongolia and some of the outdoor ones are impressive. After around 5pm, the sun sets and the New Year’s trees around the city air light up and brighten the winter gloom. Most winter nights in Ulaanbaatar the air is hazy and thick with pollution, but strangely enough, this creates a magical effect on lights. A glowing halo or aura appears around any light, whether streetlight or Christmas tree, and it is a beautiful effect if you ignore what is causing it.
Many Mongolians will have New Year’s trees inside their homes, and any guest visiting on New Year’s day will leave money in the tree for the children of the household.
The most impressive tree in the city is the giant one in Sukhbaatar Square outside the Government Palace. There is an annual tree lighting ceremony every year, and on New Year’s Eve there is a huge concert with amazing fireworks if you want to brave the cold (or you can watch it on tv). There is often ice-skating rink and activities for families set up in the Square near the tree.
Christmas tree outside a school in Ulaanbaatar. Photo by Casey Lawrence.
New Years tree in the Shangri-La mall Ulaanbaatar. Photo by Meghan Burland.
New Years tree in apartment lobby Ulaanbaatar. Photo by Michael Howard.
Christmas scene set up in the lobby of the Shangri-la hotel Ulaanbaatar.
2. Christmas Decorations
In true Mongolian style, the more glitter, sparkles, and shiny things the better! In the last few years, a vast range of Christmas decorations have become available. During our first winter in Mongolia, in 2012, there was only the odd piece of tinsel or an odd Santa’s hat available. Now there is so much choice!
The best place to buy decorations is Soyolj Garden store (Соёолж төв). In summer this is the place to buy live plants and anything gardening. But in winter this huge warehouse turns into the ultimate Christmas store. There are hundreds of artificial Christmas trees to choose from in all different colours, and all the decorations you could ever need. You also used to be able to buy huge fireworks there, not sure if they still sell these (they were quite extreme!).
Another great place for decorations is Mary and Martha. This is a fair trade handicrafts shop selling amazing hand made Mongolian products. They have beautiful decorations and all profits go to good causes within Mongolia. They also make really great gifts. Checkout this You Tube video about Mary and Martha Mongolia’s ethical fair trade and the story behind the recycled glass Christmas angel decorations.
The State Department Store (Ikh delguur/Их Дэлгүүр) is also a great place for souvenirs and decorations. Though I’m unsure if it has this level open again in 2020 as it was destroyed in a fire earlier this year. (*I can check if it reopened after lockdown ends).
Mongolian felt Christmas decorations of a camel and ger. Photo credit to Lucy Taylor.
Recycled glass angel from Mary and Martha Mongolia. Photo credit to Lucy Taylor.
Felt horse Christmas decoration from Mary and Martha Mongolia. Photo credit to Lucy Taylor.
Santa decorations for sale at Soyolj garden center/ Christmas store. Photo by Jenny Sandiford
More Christmas/ New Year’s decorations for sale at Soyolj center in Ulaanbaatar. Photo by Jenny Sandiford.
3. Grandpa Winter (Өвлийн өвгөн/ Uvleen Uvgun)
Grandpa Winter was first introduced by the Russians. He made his first appearance in 1947 and is known in Mongolia as Uvleen Uvgun. He fills a similar role to Santa Claus, but wears blue and white instead of red. Unlike Santa, he doesn’t come down the chimney or put presents under tree, but appears at New Year’s parties to give gifts to deserving children and workers.
Grandpa Winter. This Mongolian version of Santa wears blue and white. Photo credit to Shangri-la Cafe in the Park.
4. New Year’s Parties
New Year’s parties are the equivalent of Christmas parties in the west. They don’t actually happen on New Year’s Eve, but take place throughout the month of December leading up to the New Year. Many organisations have New Year’s parties for children and families. But the office New Year’s party is the important and much anticipated event of the year.
Mongolians take office New Year’s parties very seriously. It is an occasion to celebrate the year with your workmates, and a chance to let your hair down and have fun (no partners and families allowed!). You can never be too overdressed. Full formal attire is often expected, this means classy cocktail dresses, ball gowns, and suits, sometimes with multiple outfit changes throughout the night. Usually there will be a band or two, as well as a meal with multiple courses of food and drinks. Some parties will even have an official party entertainer to coordinate games and activities, and alongside copious amounts of vodka they can occasionally get a little risque.
Though this is supposed to be a fun night, every year there are unnecessary deaths in winter due to drinking. Please be careful and make sure your friends, colleagues and employees dress warmly and get home safe. If you are lucky, Grandpa Winter will make an appearance and award hard workers with gifts.
New Years jazz band at Fat cats Jazz club Ulaanbaatar. Photo credit to Meghan Burland.
Official New Years party entertainer. Photo credit to Emily Hurd.
5. Celebrating Christmas Day
Christmas day is a normal work and school day in Mongolia, not a public holiday (only 1.3% of the population identify as Christian). Some Churches will hold a special church service the Sunday before Christmas, but to most it is just a normal day.
Orphans Christmas with friends in the Shangri-La lobby after buffet Christmas lunch at Cafe in the Park restaurant.
For foreigners in Mongolia on Christmas day, there are several options. There are usually other foreigners alone on Christmas day looking for something to do, so ask around. Chances are someone will be hosting or organising an ‘orphans Christmas lunch’ and will be happy to include anyone looking for company.
A few restaurants put on special Christmas meals. You can book in advance at places such as Rebelle, Rosewood, or the Dublin Irish pub for a custom Christmas feast in a friendly environment.
The Shangri-La Cafe in the Park restaurant has a huge buffet and will have a few special Christmas options available around Christmas time. They also have a Christmas scene set up in the lobby if you want to take some fake Christmas scene photos!
Where to eat on Christmas day?
Christmas food at Cafe in the Park buffet at the Shangri-la Hotel Ulaanbaatar. Photo Credit to Cafe in the Park Shangri-la.
Christmas feast at Dublin Irish Pub (the Little Irish) Ulaanbaatar. Photo credit to Casey Lawrence.
6. New Year’s Celebrations
New Year’s Eve Mongolia
New Year’s Eve is usually reserved as family time in Mongolia. This involves having a meal with the family at home, then at five minutes to midnight watching the President’s speech live on TV. The President recaps the year and makes an official toast of milk in his traditional copper and silver bowl. Then at midnight bottles of champagne are popped and Sukhbaatar Square is lit up with an amazing fireworks display.
If you can’t handle standing outside on the Square in the cold (like me), but still want to see the fireworks, there are a few options for indoor viewing.
Places to watch fireworks at Sukhbaatar Square
Blue Sky Tower- 23rd floor Blue Sky lounge- map. This is the best spot for watching fireworks as it looks out over the square.
Monet Restaurant- 17th floor of Central Tower- map. This is right next to the square. You need to book in for dinner at this fine dining restaurant, but you can stay till past midnight to watch the fireworks and drink champagne.
Sukhbaatar Square and the Government Palace on New Year’s eve. Photo take from Monet restaurant. Photos by Jenny Sandiford
Fireworks over Sukhbaatar Square at midnight 31st of Dec.
New Year’s Day Mongolia
New Year’s day is an official public holiday in Mongolia and is often spent visiting family and eating together. A traditional Mongolian food often eaten together as a family is buuz, a steamed mutton dumpling made with wheat flour dough. Cake is also a popular choice! Bakeries and cake shops are kept very busy leading up to New Year’s, the cakes always have lots of cream and fancy decorations on top.
Though the calendar New Year’s is a big celebration, Mongolia has an even bigger one for Lunar New Year known as Tsagaan Sar (Цагаан сар). This takes place either in January or February and the dates are decided upon by Buddhist Lamas. It is a three day holiday and is a huge family celebration. Not only does it celebrate the lunar new year, but also the coming of spring and the end of the long winter.
(* Community gatherings and restaurants opening will depend on the Covid-19 situation. Check Government announcements before going out.)
7. Countryside Mongolia Christmas
If the city scene isn’t for you and you want to get away over Christmas and New Year’s, there are a few resorts and hotels open at Terelj National Park during winter where you can enjoy a peaceful white Christmas.
If you don’t mind the cold you have several options for outdoor activities. You can go for a winter hike, a snowy horse trek, or go dog sledding on the Tuul river.
There are accommodation options for peaceful log cabins, or traditional gers (Mongolian felt tent) with fireplaces. If you are after more luxury, there are lodge and hotel options.
Mongolian ger in winter. Photo by Jenny Sandiford
Dog in the Mongolian countryside during winter. Photo credit to Casey Lawrence.
Horse riding in Mongolia in winter. Photo credit to Emily Hurd.
Mongolian countryside in winter. Photo by Jenny Sandiford.
Accommodation options
Santa and his reindeer at Terelj Hotel Christmas market. Photo credit to Terlelj Resort.
New Year’s party at Resort World Terelj. Photo credit to Resort World Terelj.
New Year’s tree at Red Rocks Resort. Photo Credit to Red Rocks Resort.
8. Mongolian Holiday Songs
Suld modnii naadam (Сүлд модны наадам)
A popular song that is played during the New Year’s period is Suld modnii naadam (Сүлд модны наадам) or the Song of the New Year Tree Festival. It was composed in 1957 and is still popular to this day.
Mongolian Horse Head Fiddle "Jingle Bells"
Mongolia has many traditional instruments, one of which is the Morin khuur (морин хуур) or horse-head fiddle. Check out this morin khuur version of jingle bells.
The Altai band - Jingle Bells (Mongolian version)
In this other version of jingle balls a range of Mongolian traditional instruments are played, including the yatga (ятга) a string instrument that is plucked. The Shudraga or Shanza, a three-stringed instrument like a banjo that is covered in snakeskin. There is also tsan/ cymbals, traditional drums, and traditional throat singing.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
and In Mongolian
Танд зул сарын баярын болон шинэ жилийн мэндийг хүргэе!
( Tand zul sariin bayriin bolon shine jiliin mendiig hurgey! )
Jenny with a giant snow man at Sky Resort Ulaanbaatar
Jenny by the frozen Tuul river in wintertime Mongolia.
